Close your eyes. It’s Sunday, 1958. You’re walking into Grandma’s kitchen and that smell hits you—cabbage, butter, something baking with a cross carved on top.
Those recipes? They’re gone now.
Sure, we saved the photos and traced the family tree back to County Cork. But we let the flavors disappear. These dishes tell your family’s story better than any ship manifest ever could.
They were born from famine, perfected by faith, and killed by convenience.
Here are the foods that vanished with our grandmothers.
1. Irish Stew

Not the pub version drowning in Guinness and carrots.
Real Irish stew had three ingredients. Mutton, potatoes, onions. That’s it. Maybe some thyme if she was feeling fancy. It simmered all day while she did laundry with a washboard.
The meat came from the tough old sheep nobody else wanted. She’d brown it first—a luxury her own mother couldn’t afford. Layer after layer went into her blackened pot. The one her mother brought from Galway.
You’d smell it from the street. Neighbors knew when the Kellys were having stew.
Now we dump beef and beer into a crockpot and call it Irish. She’d laugh at us. Or maybe cry. The flavor wasn’t in what you added. It was in what you left out. It was in the waiting.
That pot fed eight kids through the Depression. Now it’s in your basement, holding Christmas ornaments.
2. Shepherd’s Pie

She never called it shepherd’s pie. It was “the Monday dinner.”
Sunday’s roast became Monday’s masterpiece. She’d grind the leftover lamb by hand—no electric nothing. Mix it with onions fried in drippings she saved in a tin can. The gravy wasn’t from a packet. It was from the pan, loosened with water and memory.
The potatoes got mashed with milk she skimmed herself. A little butter if times were good. She’d pipe them with a fork, making perfect ridges that caught the heat.
Under the broiler until golden. You’d hear it bubbling, see it browning through the oven window.
We make it now with ground beef from the supermarket. Instant potatoes. Frozen peas because someone said it needed vegetables. It fills the stomach but not the soul. Tuesday she’d scrape the burnt edges from the dish. Those were the best parts. Nobody scrapes dishes anymore.
3. Soda Bread

Four ingredients. Flour, buttermilk, baking soda, salt.
She’d make the sign of the cross over it before cutting deep. “To let the devil out and the Holy Spirit in,” she’d say. Every single time. You’d roll your eyes. Now you’d give anything to see her do it again.
No kneading. “You’ll make it tough with all that fussing.” Just shape, cut, bake. Forty minutes later, that smell. Nothing else smells like Irish soda bread cooling on a windowsill.
The crust could crack teeth. The inside, soft as butter. She’d slice it thick, slather it with more butter than your mother approved of.
Eat it warm or not at all.
Now they sell “Irish soda bread” in grocery stores. With raisins. With sugar. In plastic bags. She wouldn’t recognize it. Wouldn’t want to. Real soda bread lasted exactly one day. By design. It forced you to come back tomorrow.
4. Colcannon

Halloween meant colcannon. No exceptions.
She’d boil the potatoes until they fell apart. The cabbage—or kale if she was feeling rich—chopped fine and cooked in milk. Mash it all together with more butter than seemed possible.
But the magic wasn’t in the making. It was in the hiding.
A ring meant marriage within the year. A coin promised wealth. A thimble meant spinsterhood—though she’d whisper it meant independence. She’d wrap each charm in wax paper, bury them deep.
You’d eat carefully, feeling with your fork. The anticipation was everything.
She served it in a mountain with a butter well on top. The butter had to melt just so. You’d watch it pool, golden and perfect. First bite from the edge, working your way to that buttery center.
We still make mashed potatoes. We don’t hide our hopes inside them anymore.
5. Corned Beef and Cabbage

Here’s the truth: She only made it once a year.
St. Patrick’s Day wasn’t a monthly celebration. It was special because it was rare. She’d soak the beef for hours, changing the water twice. “To draw out the tears,” she’d say, though you never knew if she meant the salt or something else.
The pot was enormous. Had to be. Cousins would appear from nowhere when word got out. She’d layer the vegetables by cooking time. Cabbage went in last—fifteen minutes, no more. “Mushy cabbage is a sin against God and Ireland.”
The mustard was hot enough to clear your sinuses. She’d make it fresh, grinding the seeds by hand.
Americans think this is what Irish people eat all the time. She’d shake her head. Back home, it was bacon and cabbage. Corned beef was for Americans. For blending in. For pretending you belonged while remembering you never quite would.
6. Coddle

Saturday night was coddle night. Dublin soul food that no restaurant could replicate.
She’d take whatever was left—ends of rashers, bits of sausage, the last potatoes sprouting eyes. Layer it all with onions in her old pot. Cover with water. Salt, pepper, nothing fancy.
Into the oven for hours.
The smell would creep through the house. Savory. Comforting. Home. You knew it was ready when the potatoes fell apart at a touch. When the sausages gave up their fat to the broth. When everything became more than its parts.
She’d ladle it into bowls older than you. Serve it with batch bread for sopping. No talking while eating—this was serious business.
Your kids won’t eat it. Too gray. Too simple. Too much like poverty food. They don’t understand that poverty food is what kept their bloodline alive. That gray is the color of survival.
7. Boxty

“Boxty on the griddle, boxty on the pan, if you can’t make boxty, you’ll never get a man.”
She’d say it every time. You’d groan. Your feminist friends would lecture. But she’d just smile and keep grating potatoes. Raw ones and cooked ones, mixed with flour and buttermilk until it felt right. She never measured. “Your hands know,” she’d insist.
Fried in bacon fat until crispy outside, creamy inside. Like hash browns but better. Like pancakes but savory. Like nothing else you’ve tasted since.
She’d make extra because the neighbors would smell them. Mrs. O’Brien would happen to drop by. Father Murphy would need to discuss something urgent. Funny how that worked.
You tried to make them once. Followed a recipe from the internet. Measured everything perfectly. They tasted like failure. Like trying too hard. Like missing the point entirely.
8. Bacon and Cabbage

Before corned beef, there was bacon and cabbage. The real Irish dinner.
Not American bacon. Irish bacon—thick cut from the back, salty as the sea. She’d boil it whole, skimming the foam like her mother taught her. The whole house would fill with steam and memory.
The cabbage went in the bacon water. “Waste not, want not.” Cut in wedges, still firm when done. The parsley sauce was a revelation—butter, flour, milk, and more parsley than seemed reasonable. Green as Ireland, she’d joke.
Every bite told a story. This was what her mother made. And her mother’s mother. Back when they had their own pig, their own cabbage patch. Before the leaving. Before America.
You can’t find that bacon anymore. Even the Irish shops don’t carry the real thing. Something about import laws. Something about progress. Something about forgetting who we were.
9. Brown Bread

Her brown bread required faith.
No yeast. Just whole wheat flour, buttermilk, baking soda, and molasses. Mix until just combined—”Handle it like a baby bird.” Into a greased tin, into the oven, into prayer that it would rise.
Sometimes it didn’t. She’d serve it anyway. “Humble bread for humble people.”
When it worked, though. Dense, dark, slightly sweet. It could hold the weight of real butter. Could stand up to strong tea. Could fill the empty spaces in your belly and your day.
She’d wrap leftovers in a damp tea towel. By morning, it was even better. Toasted over the open flame until the edges charred. Butter melting into every crater.
The store version is too light. Too sweet. Too easy. Brown bread should fight back a little. Should make you work for it. Should taste like the earth it came from.
10. Apple Tart

Not apple pie. Apple tart. The difference mattered.
Bramley apples only—”Cooking apples for cooking, eating apples for eating.” She’d peel them in one long ribbon, a party trick that never got old. Sliced thin, tossed with just enough sugar to remember they were apples.
The pastry was short—flour, butter, cold hands. No ice water tricks. No food processor. Just fingers and patience. Rolled thin between wax paper she’d saved and reused until it fell apart.
She’d arrange the apples like roof tiles. Overlapping, perfect, though no one would see once baked. “God sees,” she’d remind you. A brush of milk, a sprinkle of sugar, into the oven.
Served warm with custard. Real custard from eggs and cream, not from a box. You’d fight your siblings for the crispy edges where the sugar caramelized.
Now you buy pie from the store and wonder why it tastes like nothing.
The Last Bite
These weren’t just recipes. They were rosaries.
Each stir a prayer. Each ingredient a memory. Each meal a mass where bread became body, where suffering became sustenance, where love became something you could taste.
We saved the photographs. We traced the ship records. We found the villages on Google Maps.
But we let the flavors die.
She carried an entire civilization in her hands. In her wooden spoon. In her tired back bent over the stove. We thought we were too good for peasant food. Too American for potatoes and cabbage. Too modern for all that stirring and waiting.
Now we pay $30 for “authentic Irish cuisine” that would make her weep. We buy soda bread in plastic bags. We order DNA tests to prove what her colcannon already knew.
The recipes are still there. Written on index cards in her careful script. Shoved in drawers. Waiting.
But recipes aren’t food. And food isn’t love. And love isn’t something you can measure in cups and tablespoons.
Still. Maybe tonight, you could try.
Start with the soda bread. Just four ingredients.
Make the cross. Let the devil out.
See if she left anything behind in your hands.
And if you need more than index cards to guide you, The Irish Cookbook holds 480 recipes that might help you find your way back to her kitchen.
Sarah Levy
I’m not Irish, but some of my children are. I’ve been making Corned Beef and cabbage and Irish soda bread for years. I also make Shepherds pie. My receipes are not authentic. I have altered them to suit our tastes. My family, and those who have eaten them for dinner at my house, remark how much better they are than the usual. I add golden raisins and toasted walnuts, and honey to the bread. After simmering in water, the corned beef is finished off in the oven coated in brown sugar and cloves. While the corned beef is in the oven, the potatoes, carrots and cabbage are boiled in the water from the simmered corned beef. My whole family ( including my Irish daughter-in-law ),and my friends love it.
I made shepherd’s Pie the other night and will finish it tonight for dinner. I also have a corned beef in the freezer—-we LOVE corned beef. I always take leftovers and make my own corned beef hash for breakfast.
In our family we each make a special dish from a family recipe. Mine is lamb stew, made from leftover roast leg of lamb. It’s the best!
I still make a lot of these dishes and so do my daughters and one grand daughter at this point.
I have a feeling that these foods will live on in our family.
We have a Scottish Pub in our little town in the shoreline in Ct.
The owner is a chef from Glasgow. He makes Guinness Stew and Shepherds pie on a regular basis.
Good healthy home cooking!
Beautiful writing. A sheer pleasure to read. I do not enjoy cooking but this essay deposited me right in a warm kitchen filled with savory and sweet tradition.